Grana

Product A firm cow’s milk cheese with a hard paste.

Origin It is a specialty of the Po Valley and surrounding areas and originated in the district immediately outside the walls of Milan where the Abbey of Chiaravalle was founded in the 12th century. At the time the abbey was built, the land was a desolate expanse of malaria-infested marshes but the monks quickly drained the area and instituted stockbreeding on a large scale. The name grana is due to the cheese’s grainy texture.

Form and Dimensions The cheese is made in large cylinders, each weighing about 70 pounds.

Characteristics The paste is white in color and firm and consistent. It is slightly granular and marked with many extremely fine pores. The flavor is delicate and the cheese melts in the mouth.

Types Grana Lodigiano: known simply as Lodigiano, this cheese is now produced solely by the cheesemaking school at Lodi, southeast of Milan. The skimming of the milk is slightly more complete than is the practice in making regular Grana Padano and the curds are broken into somewhat larger pieces. In addition, the cheese is cooked at a lower temperature. The cheese’s weight is greater than that of Grana Padano and it is aged longer: from six to eight years. When cut, the cheese is golden yellow in color but develops a slightly greenish cast if it is left exposed to the air. It has less fat than the regular Grana but contains more proteins. Bal˜n: the name applies to a grana cheese that swells up, during ripening, to form a ball (pallone in Italian but bal˜n in local dialect). It cannot, therefore, become a classic Grana Padano. It is a "specialty" of the Viadana area, in Lombardy a short distance to the northeast of Parma. The flavor is rather piquant, which appeals to some people but not to others. It sells, therefore, at a lower price than regular Grana Padano.

Aging or Ripening The cheese is aged in central units constructed in the production area by the Cassa di Risparmio delle Provincie Lombarde, a major savings bank. The cheese is stored in temperature-controlled rooms, where it is carefully watched and regularly tested by experts. After about a year, the cheese is tapped with a small hammer and the sounds indicate to the ear of the specialist the degree of ripeness attained. If the cheese is approved, it can be sold immediately or it can be aged for a further period.

Consumption Grated, Grana Padano can be added to an enormous range of preparations to give them greater finesse and appeal. Flakes or slices of the cheese can be used in cooking but they can also be consumed as an appetizer at the beginning of a meal or as a fitting conclusion to lunch or dinner.

Production Grana Padano is now produced in 27 provinces, including Mantua, Piacenza, Cremona, Brescia, Cuneo, Trent, Rovigo, Ferrara, Vicenza, Padua and Verona. The first step in the production process is the partial skimming of the milk, which is then allowed to settle in large vats for 7-8 hours at 59¡-73¡ F. Poured into large copper boilers, the milk is injected with a natural culture of lactic acid bacteria as a "starter." The bacteria increase the milk’s acidity. The temperature is raised to about 88¡ F. and rennet is added. The cheese curdles in about 10 minutes. The curds are broken into particles about the size of grains of wheat. The temperature of the milk, still in copper caldrons, is raised to 131¡ F. That temperature is maintained until the particles of casein become elastic. The curds are allowed to rest, then removed from the boiler and put in cloth. The curds are immersed in the whey for a few minutes, then packed into wooden hoops with lids to press the cheese into its traditional cylindrical shape. The cheese remains in the mold for a few hours. A special die is then used to impress a symbol on the surface of the rind. The symbol consists of the emblem indicating the origin of the cheese, the serial number of the establishment that made it and the initials of the province in which it was produced. Afterward, the cheese is soaked in brine for 20 days and is then aged.

Storage Grana Padano should be kept in a cool place, wrapped in paper or cloth.

Gastronomy Grana Padano is extensively used in the making of such traditional dishes of the Po Valley as ravioli, agnoli, polpettoni, polpette and other types of meatballs and stuffings. It is, of course, sprinkled over innumerable pasta dishes. The cheese should always be freshly grated.